Chicagoland MG Club: Driveline March 2017
Restoration Project

My 1964 MGB 2.0
New floor pans

Since I last wrote, the engine and trans are back in the car. Turned out that the overdrive Trans that John Twist helped me with was a unit from a later model MG so it had the wrong- sized first motion shaft. I called John and he insisted that it was his oversight and he turned down the shaft to the right diameter. I bought pizza for the shop lunch. When I got home I bolted the Trans to the engine and maneuvered the whole thing into the car, bolted it down and congratulated myself on a job well done.

Later that night I went over what was next on the list and decided to get the clutch slave bolted on the next day. The clutch slave that pushes on the throw out bearing arm that was still on the bench!!! #%@#%#@!!. Well as they say “Third times the charm”. I haven’t tried starting it yet as there are still a few parts to bolt on and it’s damned cold in the garage.

So the last project last fall was new floor pans. Removal of the rusted Swiss cheese floors was a chore, but cutting them up into smaller chunks made the job go fairly quickly. I was able to peel back the spot welds with a large pair of nail nippers.

Then there was the issue of my lack of welding experience. I had heard a lot about structural adhesives in the auto industry and being a cabinetmaker I have vast experience with glue. I decided on a 3M product, their 07333 Impact Resistant Structural Adhesive. Not cheap at $55.00 for 6.75 oz. tube and $65.00 for the two plunger gun. The floors took two tubes of glue with a little left over.

After grinding the frame members down to bare metal, I fit the new floors and drilled all the holes for the rivets. I then removed the pan, cleaned all the frame members, and ground the paint off of the mating side of the new floor pans. I then applied a ¼” bead of glue to all of the frame surfaces. I laid the floor pan down on the glue and started riveting, making sure to press down to get good purchase between the floor and frame. I also repaired a rust hole in the passenger side frame member using the same procedure.

I think it all went well. The adhesive goes on grey and cures to a purple color. After some primer and paint I’m ready for carpet. That will be next fall as there is plenty to do before interior work.

It appears I will have to learn to weld anyway as both doors have ‘the crack’ under the vent window, and a bit of rust repair on the left front quarter section. And judging from the amount of sand in the SU float bowels it appears a fuel tank cleanout will be necessary.
~~~~ Noel Tetrev

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