Chicagoland MG Club: Driveline December 2010

Speedometer Drive - Continued

13) Fit a new lock washer for the Propeller Shaft. Note the interlocking teeth.

14) Refit the Interlock Arm. This step may require some trial and error (and maybe an extra set of hands).

15) Refit the Remote Control Housing.


16) A final note, be careful not to lose the Damper Plunger (anti-rattle plunger) and its corresponding spring. This assembly prevents the gear selector arm from rattling too badly while driving. It is generally best to refit this only after the transmission is back in the car, prior to refitting the gear selector.

Conclusion: After completing the procedure, we were left pondering how the Drive Gear slid of its insert. The safe assumption is that the speedometer cable or angle drive somehow locked up, and something had to give. If the driven gear of the angle drive were to be stuck in place, one could imagine that the Drive Gear in the transmission could essentially be driven of its metal insert. The speedometer cable was broken too, so perhaps heat was an issue. One possible theory was that a poor engine ground could have turned the speedometer cable into an impromptu grounding strap. I will probably never know for sure what caused this, but I will be extra careful to make sure I have a solid ground connection when the engine goes back in the car.

Given the invasiveness of this procedure, it would be a good idea to do a full assessment of the transmission, replacing seals, measuring clearances, etc. Luckily, this transmission has relatively low miles and was exhibiting no other ill behavior. Be sure to follow all guidelines and torque specifications as spelled out in your factory service manual.

Many thanks to Dave “Cowboy” Bralich and everyone who helped!

-- Kyle Kruszewski  

Editor note: thanks to Kyle for such a detailed write-up and photo story. Bill Reece

Steve's British Connection

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