This problem is so named because its mostly created by tow truck drivers. Once they get the car on the flat bed it’s all too easy to sling a hook or chain over the back axle and crank it down to hold the car in position. This crushes the pipes which run along the back axle to the brake wheel cylinders. About 50% of the MG’s, I see have one or both rear brake pipes crushed as per the photograph.

Needless to say the rear brakes don’t work very well after this treatment. Most of the cars braking is done on the front wheels of course and under gentle braking if both rears are compromised many drivers probably wouldn’t notice that there is an issue. However, under emergency braking, especially if only one pipe is crushed, the cars behavior could become very unpredictable at precisely the time one needs it to be predictable.

I recommend checking your pipes for damage, replacing them as required and being attentive if your car ever gets towed in the future!

Steve Skegg
Technical Coordinator

Editor Note: Steve is a long-time active member of the Chicagoland MG Club and spends his days working on British cars in the Fix-it Garage in Naperville, IL. These Tech Tips are his personal favorites of things that go wrong with the cars he sees. This will be a continuing article in the coming issues of Driveline.

Originally sent to the Triumph Club but also applies to any MGs using SU carburetors. A simple trick that can possibly solve a pesky problem.

My 1959 TR3A cranked just fine but was running very rough. It was almost like it was only running on 2 or 3 cylinders? OK, maybe fuel is not getting to both carbs. Nope, after checking, they are both getting fuel and the floats are working properly. Ah, I'll bet that I have a fouled spark plug or plugs. I put in four new Champion L87YC plugs and no difference.

Suddenly, I remembered a Ric Cline tip (words of wisdom). I removed the dash pots and wiped the inside with a dry cloth (old T-Shirt). Next, I took a piece of heavy brown paper bag material (never emery cloth or other abrasive material) and wiped out the inside of the dash pots real good. I went one step further and applied a thin coat of spray silicon lubricant. Replace the dash pots and fired up a very smooth running engine.

Hey, it may not solve the problem every time but it is a cheap and easy thing to try.


Editor Note: Ric is the owner of Ric Cline British Car Repair - Shady Dale, GA